I’ll try and keep this short enough that somebody may actually read it ;)PROs: + The print quality is about on par with my well-calibrated delta right out of the box. I’m seeing parts coming out pretty much exactly as I’d expect to get from my other printerthe color screen is a lovely addition, and when you’re printing over USB it shows temperatures and an emergency pause/stop button.it can print without a pc using the SD card (pretty common these days, but I feel it’s worth mentioning), and it’s pretty responsive in menusThe advertised speed is a lie. I got this thing running around 75mm/s no problem. (pics include a printed object @ 75mm/s print speeds.)the construction (look below for gushing on this.)CONs (these are all minor, so don’t think they matter much. I’m being overly critical of this machine, but I do still love it. It’s just tough love.)The machine is fairly loud compared to my delta, though this is a very quiet high pitched noise you will not hear from another room. It’s a bit like a door squeaking, but less annoying.The Z axis (vertical) movement is SLOW. I suspect there’s a lead screw in there. This can also be a positive attribute though, as I am going to call monoprice on their bluff right now and say you can probably get much better than 100 microns on this thing.The scroll wheel used on this thing often will go the wrong direction every now and then. I’ve seen this problem on literally every scroll wheel used on a 3d printer. It’s Infrequent enough to make me not care that much, but it’s just a slightly irritating quirk that has me looking and double-checking options constantly.Longer review notes:HOLY CRAP this thing is solid. I’m hard pressed to find any plastic on this machine other than the extruder on top, and the build quality is absolutely phenomenal. This alone would be enough to make me recommend this printer, even if the thing didn’t print really well, which it does. I’m currently letting it print replacement parts for my delta printer as i type, and the dimensional accuracy is amazing so far. I found that no stepper calibration was needed out of the box, and leveling the bed took ~10 minutes. (another note, the bed leveling screws seem to be very stiff, and don’t feel likely to unscrew/adjust themselves mid-print. This is a good thing.)and finally, IF YOU READ NOTHING ELSE, PLEASE READ THIS: So far as I can tell, there are NO INSTRUCTIONS. The setup is mostly self-explanatory, but there are some questions I had that went unanswered, so without further adieu I present you with…<<<[[{SETUP NOTES}]]>>> – The print area size (for software that asks) is 120mm x 120mm x 120mm. – The center point of the bed is 60, 60 – The home for the X and Y axis are both 0, and the home type is “Xmin, and Ymin” respectively. – The home for the Z axis is 0, which means when homing the printer, it will go down and touch the board. There is NO SENSOR AT 120MM. If you need to move your print head out of the way to remove a print, set your post-print script to include “G1 X60 Y60 Z120”, which will move the print head to the maximum height at the center of the bed. – USE PAINTER’S TAPE OR BOROSILICATE GLASS. I’m currently using painter’s tape (green frogtape at the moment), which works fine. I got ABS to stick by spraying the tape with a bit of aquanet hairspray. – If you plan to get a glass plate, you will quickly realize you cannot home the Z axis. To fix this, screw the bed down further to compensate for your glass thickness. also, get relatively thin glass.The print head has a hard time getting hot enough to print ABS. It takes a long time, especially if there’s a fan in the room. I’d recommend upgrading the heat cartridge when you can. Additionally, the print bed has a hard time going over 55c.That’s about all I can think of at the moment. I will post pictures in the link below. If you have any questions regarding the machine, please comment here and i’ll answer everything I can. Thanks guys :Dhttp://imgur.com/a/LyAEF http://ift.tt/1TWvTGz