Prusa I3 MK3 troubleshooting guideI needed to troubleshot my Prusa i3 MK3, and before I started I did some research and figured I just as well make an cheat sheet so I can tick items of as I test them. Thought I would share.If you have anything useful to add, post it and ill add it to the list.Difficulty: EasyUpdate firmwareLose X- carriage /extruder screws. Wiggle the extruder to see if it´s lose, Tighten screws.Lose Z axis rods. See that there are no movements in the rods when wiggling it, tighten if needed.Z axis nuts. Loosen the nuts while it´s still on printer, then tighten it again. This will ensure better alignment.Ensure belt screws are properly tighten to motors and that they are aligned.Calibrating Extruderidler/Filament biting variation. If Teeth bite to hard it can deform filament. Solve this by calibrating idler. First loosen the gears with the two screws. Then load filament. As it it´s loading tighten screws until filament is grabbed and extruded. You can also replace the idler to a more MK2 solution.Bondtech gears alignment. Ensure gears are aligned with filament path.Filament quality. Buy good filament. Make sure it´s thickness diameter is consistent. Do test measurements.Keep filament dry and store it in dry dark containers when not in use. It´s possible to dry out filament if left out to long.All movements on the printer rods should be smooth. Tighten screws as necessary.Use presets from Prusa even when using different slicers.Ensure your slicer settings are correct, are you using the correct settings for the material?Decrease, printing at the insane speed it´s capable of is really pushing the limits. Try lowering print-speeds.Re-calibrate your printer. If you have moved it, tinkered with it, re-calibrate it.Ensure PINDA-Probe is at proper hight. Move extruder to bottom of plate, pinda probe should be thickness of an included cable tie from bed to PINDA probe. Re-calibrate printer afterwards.Difficulty: MediumSee if bed wobbles by shaking it a bit. Unscrew heater plate, loosen the U bolts while they are on the rails, ensure they are centered, tighten ONLY to when screws meet plate, then turn 90 degrees more. Possible to also replace bearings all together (misumi LMU8 is recommended).Incorrect meshing on the bontech gears (depending on how far apart the gears are from each other it can cause issues). Known issue, nothing to do about other then to remove a gear or grind one gear down.Stock rubber feet. A ridged foot seems to improve print quality, you can remove feet, but it will increase sound or replace with stiffer feet.Bondtech gears bearings. Make sure both of the bondtech bearings are properly inserted.Do a Extrusion multiplier calibration: https://ift.tt/2MuWlKW .Linearity correction. Do a calibration https://ift.tt/2OJA6OO the extruder: https://ift.tt/2MwffRK Hard / requires partsX END being to lose. If you try to twist the whole extruder forward or backwards (don´t over do this) you may notice that there are some give. Print new parts with ~4 perimeters, 20/30% infill.PTFE tube, check that tube is firmly in place. Can be solved by printed parts.Lose hot end, lose hot end assembly. When printer is cold. Try to wiggle the hot end and make sure it´s firmly in place in the Extruder. If so you can try to add tape, or reprint parts to ensure it´s firm in place.Belt rubbing, the idler can be replaced. But apparently not to important.Belt quality. Over time the belt can loosen over time. Either tighten belt once in a while or replace with better belt.Hot end cooling issues. The Noctua fan is not cooling enough. Solution is one of the following:Prusa revision 3 extruder https://ift.tt/2Bh5Zws cooling fan.Insulating with ceramic tapeUpgrade spooler holder so spooler does not cause to much tension, apparently this can cause line issues. Something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020026Source:http://prusaowners.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_make_prints_better_on_the_mk3#Nozzle_polishinghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lsa-PXAXdKY https://ift.tt/2KYYCcz