(Seriously not trying to spam the group, but text + image in a post is not terrifically intuitive.)The brace, just after shaping.Someone posted a question the other day about how to print infill only (hint: first and last layer count = 0), and the answer was provided with the comment, “Can’t imagine why you’d want to, but…”Well, here’s why. I have developed a nerve problem in my neck that makes playing guitar or bouzouki (the instrument in the picture’s background) for more than a few minutes very painful in my hands, something about gripping the pick, making and holding a pincer. If I keep my hand flat I can go for hours, but then I can’t hold a pick.I’ve designed a thumb splint that I can slip on and off quickly (to go from jigs or reels to a slow ballad, finger-picked). The first iteration was a grid built into the design, but printed flat the slicer made hundreds of individual squares that cracked and came apart the first time I picked it up. Printed vertically, the filament drooped and created an extremely rough and uneven surface.I hit upon the idea of making the design twice as thick, printed flat but only printing the infill (20%). That gave me the solid grid I need, and very smoothly. I’ll super-glue a pick in the right spot and away we go. The first version, a simple cylinder shaped using hot water, already works a treat.I created the pattern by putting on a cheap, thin glove, then duct taped over the area + a little bit, marked my cut lines, cut it off, laid it flat. (You can google “duct taping a pattern” for more info.)Printer: FLSun 3D CubeFilament: Inland matte gray. Not my favorite but does the job.20% infill; .4mm nozzle; .15mm layers. https://ift.tt/2MTY1KD