Micro 3D’s ABS-r

Has anyone had printing experience with Micro’s ABS-R? We need the strength properties of ABS, but as you know the warp is an issue, and the fumes kill me. (I have put in a full exhaust system for my printing setup.) I’ve been looking at using it as alternative, but wanted to hear honest reviews first. Thanks!Link: http://ift.tt/21lANNc http://ift.tt/290QS8s

Foodsafe question

I’ve had several ideas recently about printing somethings that would be used around stuff that will end up in your mouth. I’m wondering to what extent I can safely get away with.Things like cookie cutters or toothbrush holders/cases. not things like forks or cups.If those things are no good, is there some other post process that i can do to make it safe?I print PLA on a Da Vinci Jr. http://ift.tt/290QNBN

Filament inside enclosure or not?

I’m looking to build an enclosure for my machine, but I’ve heard mixed results in regards to where to put the filament spoolObviously inside the enclosure seems more practical, but some folks say repeatedly heating the filament inside the enclosure is bad.Does this only apply to PLA and other materials with low GT temps? Is it safe to do this with ABS filament, for example? I’d prefer not to mount the spools outside. http://ift.tt/28SJjnJ

Aussie keen to join the 3D printing party! Advice Welcome!

G’day, first time posting here. I’ve been reading the RepRap wiki and r/3Dprinting since last year and have decided to jump in and buy a printer. I’m keen to learn and at the stage where I need to discuss details.BackgroundBudget: ~$2000AU for initial kit, all upgrades, tools and starter filament. (Open to putting more than that in if it’s truly worth it)Occupation: Mechanical Engineer / Physicist / Draftsman / 3D Laser ScannerLocation: Near Townsville, North Queensland, Australia (for availability advice)Purpose: Print models that I design in AutoCAD, print meshed models from laser scan data (I can convert these to STL files) and print other cool stuff.Software: I have 3D modelling, drafting and laser scaning software packages and experience. I have also played around with Slic3r to get the feel for it.DIYness: Let’s do this. I have patience and robotics, machining, coding, troubleshooting experience. However, I’ve never worked hands-on with a 3D printer (yet smiling smiley ).From what I’ve read the Prusa i3 (and the many many derivatives) can be upgraded heaps to produce high quality prints reliably. I would prefer to spend the money and build the printer with upgraded parts from the get go if that is advised. I am a first timer, but am keen to have a go at a higher end build. Most of my designs and models are quite detailed so a precise printer that can handle overhangs well is needed.Questions!Which Prusa i3 kit/derivative would you recommend (I’ve had my eye a Hephestos)? If not a Prusa i3 based, which reprap kit would you recommend?Links of said recommended kit online for me to throw money at? (Do these Hephestos or basic i3 look legit?Are there any specific components or build technics (e.g. hot end, electronics etc.) that you would say “Yes, better than sliced bread, do it this way”What am I overlooking?(different aim) My laser scan data models are often meshes, not solids yet I can still make STL files from them. How do I make these printable?Be blunt and honest, I’m here to learn. Cheers. http://ift.tt/28QGyR8

Maker select leveling issues

When I try to level my print bed, I end up with the lower left and upper right corners backed all the way out, and the bottom right corner squashed all the way in as far as it can possibly go. I’ve had my base plate off to make sure it isn’t warped, and it is fine. I also loosened and tightened my Y rods to try and make sure they are straight. My Z axis is also straight. Whether I have the heat bed mounted or not, the bottom left corner of the plate is 1.5mm above the edge of the frame, and the bottom right is 3.9mm. I checked the plate with a ruler, and it doesn’t look like it’s permanently warped. It’s just sitting crooked enough that I can’t get my bed leveled. Hopefully you can tell by this photo.I tried adding washers under the springs of the corners that are backed out and that helped me get it level, but then the top right corner of the plate was flexed downwards, causing it to crash into the frame when I tried to home Y.The crazy thing is the problem actually got worse over time. I’ve done several nice prints off of this thing, but the last time I tried, it was so bad that I couldn’t home with the print bed on it. If I force it level with washers, there’s too much tension on the plate and it bends and hits the frame. I thought about adding washers under the plate, between it and the bearing blocks, in order to get the plate itself level, but I feel like I might be overlooking something. Any ideas? http://ift.tt/28UIGcd