PEI solid sheet on heated bed: viable option to glass build plate?

SexyCyborg has a 3d printer with a solid, removable PEI sheet. I assume its sitting on top of a heated bed. Most of the PEI sheets I’ve seen are very thin and need to be stuck to glass with 2-sided adhesive.Would a sheet of this thickness/size be a viable option over borosilicate glass given the temperatures that heated beds can get to when printing PETG and ABS?edit : i just found one – Amazon sells a 1/8 inch (3mm) thick sheet…for $60!. I guess I’ll stick to my borosilicate glass for now. I just thought it was interesting to see someone printing on a solid sheet of it.edit2 : anyone know what kind of printer she’s using? http://ift.tt/2bgULb8

Printer Issues – MakerBot Replicator 2 – Extruder loses heat when using active cooling fan

Hello! Thanks for taking the time to read about my problem! I don’t currently have access to the printer, but I know the problems I was facing and will have the printer again in about 24 hours.My school received a 3D printer three years ago. When it was first put together it worked flawlessly. Then it was left in a closet for a year and accumulated dust and debris. The people who had it before it came into my hands cleaned it and re-lubricated the the X and Y access. When it boots up it says “Heating Failure #4 my temperature reads are failing! Please check my connections.” The people who handed me the machine told me to ignore the issue. After figuring out the best settings, I made a few test prints and everything worked fine. Most projects had to be large because it was terrible with finer detail prints (mostly due to my lack of knowledge). Eventually, anytime that the active cooling fan was on, the temperature of the print head would slowly dwindle down until it reached a point that the printer would force stop. Looking online, I realized that the “Heating Failure #4 my temperature reads are failing! Please check my connections.” was more important than I was told. I haven’t printed anything since and wanted to know your opinions.At the time, I didn’t want to sink too money or time much into a printer that isn’t my own, so I didn’t attempt to resolve this issue sooner. Now, I have the support of the school and would like to know which steps I should take in order to fix the machine myself.Thank you! http://ift.tt/2aMPLvD

Conductive filament sources?

Having broken in my FFCP pretty well (er, aside from the occasional small glitch), I’m now looking into one of my major interests in 3D printing: conductive filament.So far, I’ve found three kinds of conductive filament:1) Proto-Plant’s conductive filament, which is based on graphite. I actually bought a spool of this, before learning of its resistivity, which is on the order of 1.8 kΩ per centimeter. It’s like printing with a string of resistors… It may still be workable if I print really fat tubes (like a 10-gauge wire), but even then it’s still way too high for normal use.2) Several other sources have conductive filament that’s a combination of PLA and graphene. Much better resistivity, but… er… isn’t graphene, like, kind of dangerous? Even more so if you heat it and extrude it in small doses, which tends to aerosolize it? I’ve already experienced enough ABS fumes that I’m now running a HEPA filter right next to the FFCP, and that’s for ABS, which has no appreciable (or, at least, recognized) health risks. Graphene… I dunno. Seems like a bad idea.3) Specialty printers that can lay down rows of conductive ink in conjunction with printed matter, and of course the printers run in the range of $4k.Can anyone comment, or suggest an alternative source? http://ift.tt/2aLoSF7

Looking for assistance in breaking the shackles of XYZPrinting (DaVinci AIO 1.0)

Roughly 4-5 months ago I purchased a DaVinci AIO 1.0 as my gateway into 3D printing and, despite a number of quirks with the designs, I’ve been pretty happy with the purchase, as it gives me a nice distraction from working and studies. I have found my reliability of XYZPrinting’s products to be rather frustrating though, time-wise and money-wise and had decided that once I was comfortable printing on their terms (with their supported tools and products) that I would start looking into alternatives.I’m now at the point where I’m wrapping my head around CAD designing, I’ve managed to print a couple passable objects (including a little Stitch car ornament that I’m very happy with) and have reached that point where I want to start considering other means of printing with my Da Vinci. Specifically, I’m hoping to look into ways of using non-XYZ filaments and being able to slice (if not print) outside of XYZWare with as little trouble as possible.I have done some research and found that when it comes to filaments, my biggest complication is replacing or mimicking the cartridge chip that is scanned by the printer, supplying temperatures, color and spool filament lengths (specifically max and how much is remaining). I know from my research that there was FLASH devices that could be placed in the printer in order to fake this information, and that as long as the chip information is acceptable to the printer it will print any filament you feed into it. The issue is I’ve been unable to find anywhere still stocking these devices or otherwise shipping them to Australia, and haven’t found any other methods apart from flushing the printer and installing custom firmware, which I want to avoid at all costs. Specifically, I’m hoping to be printing in your typical ABS and PLA filaments, as well as NinjaFlex, transparent and PLA/metal filaments (as of this time I’ve only ever printed in ABS, couldn’t even find PLA cartridges in Australia that would fit my budgets).As for XYZWare, I don’t really have a problem with the software as a whole, but there is small things that just irk me. For example, my biggest problem is despite having an alright (yet lacking compare to other softwares I’ve read about) amount of user configuration, it seems that apart from layer height and turning rafts/supports/brims on and off, it just flat out ignored any configuration changes I make. As an example, if I attempt to change the infill type from rectangular, it stays rectangular (not really an issue for me). If I try to change the print speed from medium to slow it still prints at a faster speed (yep, that’s a problem). And my biggest hate, is if I attempt to change supports from thick to light it completely ignored it and prints as many supports as it can, making post-cleanup a complete nightmare and for prints with a fair amount of overhang (think extended arms or wings on a statue and the likes) it becomes a guessing game whether I’m going to be able to snap enough of the support off that it doesn’t damage the print or reduce detail, or if I should bite the bullet and spend 4x the amount of time sanding and vaporizing with Acetone (and I spend a long time on this already..).As mentioned I am happy with the Da Vinci and don’t intend on buying a new printer for quite a while (and it doesn’t help that I can’t afford to buy another one any time soon, and don’t have the room for a second printer to begin with), and I’ve got plenty of time to work out a game plan (cleaned out Big W’s stocks of some blue and green ABS cartridges when they were on clearance for 38$ each, currently sitting on 170M ABS + 2 fresh cartridges in storage). Any suggestions, advice or nudges in the right direction would be greatly appreciated! http://ift.tt/2b0cSCD

What exactly happens if a printer tries to print something too tall?

I mis-remembered the max height that my printer can print…and I’m almost done with a 15 hour print.Problem is, it’s about .2 inches too tall. Does the printer stop printing, or does it just keep going?I have a monoprice maker select v2 http://ift.tt/2bhHcvk